I bump into Ali inside the ruins of the castle at Eğil. He’s collecting medicinal herbs in an old water bottle but is…
Sometimes I strike it particularly lucky with taxi drivers as was the case when I arrived in Darende, midway between Kayseri and Malatya.…
Imagine a bus station. It’s right in the centre of town. On the top floor buses arrive and depart for distant destinations. On…
It was early in the morning and I was rushing through Malatya’s bazaar on my way to catch the bus to Darende. It…
In his youth, I think, Hasan must have been something of a heart-stopper. Even now in his fifties he seems wholly at ease…
While in İstanbul recently I got chatting to a woman who had been married to a Turk for more than forty years. Like…
The man sitting across from me in the corner cafe is almost blue with cold. What’s more his hands are shaking uncontrollably. “Here,…
You’re coming to a Muslim country for Christmas so there won’t be any sign of Christmas, right? Well, actually wrong. You’ll see the…
I’m in Burdur otogar waiting for the bus to Bucak when a woman sits down beside me who, at a sidelong glance, I’m…
At the entrance to Kıyıkızlacık, near Milas, a man has set up a kokoreç stand to grill lamb entrails for passers-by. It strikes…