Much is written about the trials and tribulations of being a driver in Turkey but actually it’s not a whole lot better if…
It’s not easy to be a travel writer when at heart you’re rather an earnest person. Travel is, after all, an essentially frivolous…
It was just before last year’s election when I decided to head out to southeast Turkey. As on previous occasions it was obvious…
The road to Dargeçit, the old Suryani Kferboran northeast of Midyat, is in a shocking state. Or at least I presume that it…
Success! On my second try I’d actually managed to get inside the fourth-century monastery of Mor Yakup in Nusaybin. I’d also seen the…
When you’re researching a travel article everything sometimes works out perfectly first time round. Unfortunately on other occasions it simply doesn’t, which is…
Writing about Cizre this week memories from last year came flooding back. Cizre was one of the few towns in Turkey I had…
Last night I had the weirdest sensation. I was walking back from the İkbal Lokantası in Afyon town centre to the Şehitoğlu Konaği…
Poor old Fatih, forever fated to be written off as too conservative and/or stuffed with wedding dresses. Yet the strange thing is that…
It was an odd end to an otherwise enjoyable day. I’d strolled along the Bosphorus from Kuruçeşme to Bebek with my guidebook writer’s…