Walking back through Aksaray on Sunday night I spotted a banner announcing that mourning for Ashura, the tenth day of Muharrem, the first…
A watery sunbeam scythes a line across the flanks of a mountain. The setting sun casts a golden glow on the backs of…
I amble up the road to Laodicea expecting a quick whip round a site I’d visited some years ago without much enthusiasm. “Ten…
I suppose it was my own stupidity. I suppose only a fool would have believed a sign that said that shuttle buses ran…
Today’s Tuesday so it’s market day in Tire. I’m in need of some of the excellent felt slippers with which I aways associate…
“Excuse me, could you tell me the way to the Asansör?” I had just emerged from İzmir’s Üçyol Metro station which was, according…
It’s a bitingly cold evening in İzmir which comes as something of a shock to me who had always imagined its climate to…
If you’re a visitor, there are many good things to be said about the new İzmir İzban Metro which has made getting about…
“Go to Bayraklı on the Metro,” the archaeologist at the Altınpark Achaeological Park in Basmane had said to me. “I live there so…
Returning to İzmir after several years’ absence I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. Would Anafartalar Caddesi, that olde-worlde thoroughfare that runs east…