“Ancillary Village” Market: Saturdays If the best place to see Muslim funerary architecture in İstanbul is Eyüp on the Golden Horn, the best…
“With a Skewer (or a Swelling)”? Şişlı is a sprawling neighbourhood of central İstanbul north of Taksim Square with Halaskargazi Caddesi (Veteran Hero…
The main reason for a visitor to come to Harbiye, the continuation of Elmadağ along Cumhuriyet Caddesi north of Taksim Square, is to…
“Apple Mountain” Expect no apple mountains in Elmadağ! This part of İstanbul, just north of Taksim Square along busy Cumhuriyet Caddesi, is mainly…
“Cradle Stone” Market: Saturday (Nüzhetiye Caddesi) Overlooked by most visitors to İstanbul, Beşiktaş (“Cradle Stone” in an allusion to a story that a piece…
“Polite Stone” Despite its pleasant name, Kabataş, midway between Fındıklı and Dolmabahçe, is little more than a major transport interchange where the trams…
“With a Hazelnut” East of Tophane the Bosphorus coast road from the Galataport whips through Fındıklı, a fairly nondescript part of town mainly…
Northwest of Taksim Square, in the busy corner formed by Cumhuiyet Caddesi and Tarlabaşı Bulvarı, Talimhane was, not so very long ago, a…
“Waterwheel Stream” Flea market: Sunday Dolapdere is the area immediately below Tarlabaşı but whereas Tarlabaşı is full of fine if broken-down houses Dolapdere…
“Galata Palace” Galatasaray is the name of one of İstanbul’s three ferociously popular football teams but long before that it was the name…