No one could visit Turkey and not come across Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the hero of the Turkish War of Independence (1919-23) and the…
Old name: Tatavla Tucked away at the back of Şişli, Kurtuluş is not the sort of place most visitors to İstanbul ever discover. Certainly…
“Ancillary Village” Market: Saturdays If the best place to see Muslim funerary architecture in İstanbul is Eyüp on the Golden Horn, the best…
“With a Skewer (or a Swelling)”? Şişlı is a sprawling neighbourhood of central İstanbul north of Taksim Square with Halaskargazi Caddesi (Veteran Hero…
On what must have been one of the coldest evenings of the year I took to the streets of Kurtuluş to see what…