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Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

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7170
Tucked away in the back streets of conservative Fatih in Old İstanbul there’s a mosque that boasts a particular treasure. The Hırka-ı Şerif is a garment believed to have belonged to the Prophet Mohammed and bequeathed by him to Veysel Karani, a Muslim mystic from Yemen whom he had never...
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12814
Poor old Fatih, forever fated to be written off as too conservative and/or stuffed with wedding dresses. Yet the strange thing is that you can spend a perfectly happy few hours here without anybody bothering you about religion at all. And that’s even when you’re a woman without a headscarf,...
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