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Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

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I’d come to Ardeşen, due east of Rize, in search of its famous hawkers but alas I’d come too late. In the local teahouse they were very apologetic. August, they said. September. But look, here on the wall were photographs of sparrowhawks in all their splendid plumage, and here by the...
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