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Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

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3702
  “Berbat, çok berbat (awful, really awful).” Believe me, these are not the words you want to hear when attempting to cross the Çam Geçidi (Pine Pass, 2460m) between Ardahan and Şavşat in the depths of one of the worst winters Turkey has had for years. I’d had a sneak preview...
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