Icukur1f antiques are your thing then the place to head for is Çukurcuma, the trendy area squeezed in between Cihangir and Galatasaray that is full of shops selling everything from basic bric-a-brac to antiques that you'll need a mortgage to buy. Like Cihangir, this is an area with many fine mansion blocks that are quickly being snapped up and renovated. It's also home to a growing number of fashionable cafes.

For non-antique-lovers the main reason to venture into Çukurcuma will be to visit Orhan Pamuk's much-reviewed Museum of Innocence, as much an artwork itself as a museum in the conventional sense of the world. cukur3

Around Çukurcuma

If you approach Çukurcuma from behind Cihangir's Firuz Ağa Cami you will find yourself walking along Ağa Hamam Sokak named after the Ağa Hamam, a seemingly fairly new building that, behind the facade, dates back to 1562. 

The street is increasingly inviting, with more and more shops and cafes. To find the older antique shops, however, you need to turn left downhill along Altı Patlar Sokağı where you'll find the lovely Leyla, my very favourite of the shops and packed full of luscious Ottoman fabrics.

AltI Patlar Sokak bears left and comes to a cross roads. Turn left and you can circle round and back to Cihangir. Turn right and you'll come to Faikpaşa Caddesi and yet more wonderful antique shops. This street ends at a T-junction. Turn right to make your way up to Galatasaray, passing the Cezayir restaurant which is housed in an old schoolhouse. 

If, instead, you walk straight ahead from Altı Patlar Sokağı, passing the Çukurcuma Cami, a 19th-century rebuild on the site of a Sinan mosque, you will find yourself heading downhill along Çukurcuma Caddesi where some of the shops offer slightly cheaper items. It's here, too, that you'll find Orhan Pamuk's famous Museum of Innocence.

Ağa Hamam Sokak eventually turns into Turnacabaşı Caddesi which runs all the way up to İstiklal Caddesi, passing the Galatasaray Hamam and the Zographeion, once a school for Greek children, its facade pleasingly decorated with two carved griffins. Designed by Perikles Fotiades, it opened in 1893 and was named after Christakis Zografos, its biggest benefactor. Patriarch Bartholomew I, the current patriarch,  was a pupil here. The school is still in operation although with very few pupils. 

zoggrifEating and drinking

Holy Coffee

This tiny cake shop in the tiny stretch of street linking Çukurcuma and Faikpaşa Caddesis is a great place to come for coffee and a home-made cake. It's something of an expat hangout.

Tel: 0212-243 6869


Hotel Corinne

Transport info

Çukurcuma is not well connected as regards public transport although it's only a short walk from Firuz Ağa Cami in Cihangir or from the Galatasaray Hamam.

Nearby areas



İstiklal Caddesi

Taksim Square





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