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ÇENGELKÖY

aengel1The Bosphorus suburb of Çengelköy ("Anchor Village") is generally regarded as a nice place to live despite the horrendous traffic that pours through it at all times.

It's not a place, however, to come to go sightseeing. Rather, you should head straight for the waterside square that is dominated by a huge and ancient plane tree, its branches now supported by props. 

Until recently, the Vahdeddin Köşkü, a huge 19th-century mansion distinguished by a tower topped with an onion dome, served as a landmark high on the hillside above Çengelköy as you came into from Beylerbeyi. Originally built for the Armenian Köçeoğlu family, it became home to Sultan Abdülaziz’s nephew Prince Burhaneddin and then to Vahdeddin Mehmed VI, the last of the sultans who reigned from 1918 to 1922 before being sent into exile. Astonishingly in 2012 it was demolished in favour of a modern replica whose precise use has yet to be determined.

As you leave Çengelköy heading for Kandilli you'll see on the inland side of the road the austere 19th-century building that houses the Greek Orthodox Church of Hagios Giorgios.aengel2

Around Cengelköy

The most obvious place for car lovers to feed their addiction is probably the Rahmi M. Koç Museum in Hasköy. There, though, the cars are just part of a much wider collection not just of vehicles but of other industrial artifacts, too. On the road running inland from Çengelköy to Ata 2, however, the SAV Automobile Museum is a small and easily overlooked attraction (only open Friday-Sunday, admission fee, bus: Müze) completely devoted to veteran and vintage cars which are parked in all their shiny glory across two whole floors.

Eating and drinking

The place to sit and have a glass of tea has to be the Tarihi Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi on the waterfront. If you fancy a toothsome macaroon to go with the tea the Seval Pastanesi on the high street has been in business since 1957.

The large Erbap Restaurant on the high street is the sort of place to come if you're after a decent everyday mean rather than something pricy and special occasion. Crowds pour in for Sunday brunch; you'd be well advised to join them.

Sleeping

Sumahan-on-the-Water

Transport info

Çengelköy is served by an infrequent but very enjoyable ferry service (http://sehirhatlari.com.tr/en/timetable/cengelkoy-istinye-368.html). Otherwise you can easily get here by bus from Üsküdar.

Nearby areas

Beylerbeyi

Kuleli

Kuzguncuk

Üsküdar

Vaniköy

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