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ELMADAĞ
Expect no apple mountains in Elmadağ (Apple Mountain). This part of İstanbul just north of Taksim Square along Cumhuriyet Caddesi is mainly a heavily built-up transit point for getting from the square to Harbiye and the Askeri Müzesi (Military Museum) although it is lined with some impressive 19th and early 20th-century apartment blocks that go largely unnoticed.
Around Elmadağ
As you walk along Cumhuriyet Caddesi you will come on the left to the facade of the Surp Agop Armenian Hospital. Running downhill beside it is Elmadağ Caddesi which is lined with pretty little townhouses with cumbas (bay windows) which used to house eldely Armenians. Only the facades will remain once a huge new shopping mall shapes up behind them.
Across the road from these houses is the huge Arifpaşa (Sarıcazade) apartment block with its Parisian-style courtyard and one wood-faced wall. It was designed by the Greek architect, Constantin P. Pappa (1868-1931). It is said to have contained the first privately-owned lift. The apartments have always been a favourite with writers and artists including Pınar Kür (1943- - ) who wrote Bir Deli Ağac (A Crazy Tree) here in 1992. 
Arifpaşa Apartment Block
One building you might want to look out for is Notre Dome de Sion, a French girls school that was built right on the main road in 1856. Actually, Notre Dame is a complex which includes a High Gothic chapel and a small art gallery that hosts temporary exhibitions. There's also a concert hall which stages Classical music events from time to time.
Nearby is the Hilton Hotel, designed in 1955 by Sedat Hakkı Erdem and the first Hilton to open in Europe. It stands in extensive grounds big enough to accommoodate an outdoor swimming pool. It's hard to imagine any competitor having such luck these days.
Sleeping
Divan Hotel. Tel: 0212-315 5500
Germir Palas Hotel. Tel: 0212-361 1110
Hilton Hotel. Tel: 0212-315 6000
Taxim Suites. Tel: 0212-254 7777
Transport info
You can easily stroll along Cumhuriyet Caddesi to admire the buildings of Elmadağ although many buses also plough up and down the road.
Nearby areas
Art Nouveau details of Belvu Apt Block, Cumhuriyet Caddesi
Art Nouveau details of Belvu Apt Block, Cumhuriyet Caddesi