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KUZGUNCUK

aug3Old name: Kosinitsa

While not well known to outsiders, the Kuzguncuk suburb of Asian İstanbul is very popular as a place to live because it still has the feel of a cohesive neighbourhood with a main street, İcadiye Caddesi, that boasts an inviting range of one-off shops, cafes and restaurants.

The fact that the suburb retains churches, mosques and synagogues has ensured that it is often talked about in terms of multicultural tolerance. In reality, of course, the churches and synagogue have only tiny congregations today. 

Coming in from Üsküdar the extensive Fethi Ahmet Paşa Korusu (Woods) sit immediately beside the main road. Paths wind steeply uphill here, but, as is increasingly the case, Beltur are on hand with an Ottoman-themed restaurant in which you can relax on your way back down again.

aug2Surp Krikor LusavoriçThe unmissably huge Armenian church of Surp Krikor Lusavoriç is right beside the main coast road, near the old ferry terminal. It was built in 1831 and rebuilt in 1861. Right beside it is Kuzguncuk Cami, also known as the Yeni (New) Cami because it was only built in 1952. The domes of the two buildings mirror each other in pleasing fashion. 

Inland on İcadiye Caddesi, the Greek Orthodox Church of Hagios Pantaleimon was built in 1896 on the site of an earlier church dating back to 550 that burnt down in 1861. Its magnificent detached bell tower (1911) doubles as an entrance gate. Beside it, in a detached building, is an ayazma (sacred spring) also dedicated to Hagios Pantaleimon.aug1Ayazma chapel at Hagios Pantaleimon

A third, smaller Church of Hagios Georgios stands beside the Beth Ya’akov synagogue.

Eating

Asude Ev Yemekleri

Well-known for tasty home cooking served in a diminutive but cheerful restaurant just off the high street.

Tel: 0216-334 4414

Betty Blue

Colourful and idiosyncratic little café, perfect for a light lunch or afternoon tea.

İcadiye Caddesi No. 21/A

İsmet Baba

Venerable Bosphorus-facing fish restaurant with few decorative frills but a reputation for great dining.

Tel: 0216-553 1232

Kosinitza

Slightly cramped high-street fish restaurant with a vaguely French feel to it and prices more reasonable than at some of the places with Bosphorus views.

Tel: 0216-334 0400, İcadiye Caddesi

Sitare

Large bistro-like cafe-restaurant with back garden that serves excellent chocolate souffles.

Tel: 0216-391 4400

Transport info

It's easy to get to Kuzguncuk by bus from Üsküdar although it's only a short walk if the weather is good. 

Nearby areas

Beylerbeyi

Üsküdar

Vanıköy

aug4Betty Blue cafe

 

 

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