polat1The best base for visiting the Phrygian sites at Gordion is Polatlı,a leafy, well-ordered town, and a good example of modern Anatolia at its best.

There’s little in the town that’s of much historic interest although as you come in from the bus station you will spot on the left-hand side of the road a mound which has been excavated to show that the site has been  inhabited since the Early Bronze Age (c. 3000 BC).

Focal point of the town centre is a square decorated with the predictable statue of Atatürk but behind it some of the old railway buildings have been tarted up and given new life as cafes overlooking a water feature which may or may not have water in it when you visit.

Nearby stands a memorial to Necip Fazıl Kısakürek (1905-83), the poet responsible for a popular poem called Sakarya Türküsü, as well as a lively monument commemorating the Turkish War of Independence (1919-22).

In the evening you might want to stroll down to the Urfa Sofrası where a pleasant restaurant serves dinner in the grounds of a building designed to imitate an old Ottoman mansion.


A group of hotels cluster around the main square.

Hotel Gordion

Tel: 0312-623 1399

Otel Frigya

Tel: 0312-622 9900

Otel İkbalhan

Nicest of the lot offering breakfast in the adjacent bistro and even managing that unusual amenity, a decent single room.

Tel: 0312-622 2601

Transport info

Polatlı is served by half-hourly buses from the main AŞTİ bus station in Ankara.

Some trains to Ankara from Haydarpaşa in İstanbul also pass through Polatlı town centre but their times are not very useful. The line is currently being upgraded which might mean that the timetable eventually becomes more user-friendly.

Buses from Polatı to Yassıhöyük (for Gordion) are very infrequent, but Polatlı taxi drivers know the ropes and will run you there and back. Agree a price to include waiting time before setting out to avoid arguments later. 



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