The "Long Valley"                          Population: 6,500

Market day: Friday

Festival: Wrestling bouts on 29 October

This small northeastern town midway between Artvin and Erzurum makes a possible alternative base for visiting the Georgian churches at Öşk Vank and Bağbaşı, as well as the Tortum Şelalesi (waterfall), although the signposted "ev pansiyonları" had been reduced to a single option by the time I visited. 

There are no specific sights in a town which centres on its modern mosque. A handful of small lokantas offer refreshment although they all stop serving early.


Turan Pansiyon

On the main road opposite the Jandarma post this small, simple pension with an exuberant garden is not especially exciting (and had some housekeeping issues when I stayed) but does offer the chance to sample a decent köy kahvaltısı (village breakfast) with the family. An evening meal is also available on request. Rooms open off a central hall with a TV in it which would be a disaster if Turkish men working on one of the many local dam projects were in residence. 

Tel: 0535-821 7725

Transport info

Three buses a day run from Erzurum to Uzundere (85km; 1pm, 3pm and 5.30pm). From Uzundere they return to Erzurum at 7.30am, 9am and 2pm.

A taxi waits by the mosque to drive you to nearby attractions.

Day trip destinations

Bağbaşı (Haho)

Öşk Vank

Tortum Şelalesi

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