Turkey's best bread?                                               Population: 14,000

vakmktMarket day: Monday

If you're trundling along the Black Sea coast between Giresun and Trabzon and it's a Monday you might want to break your journey to take a look at the huge Black Sea market that spreads itself out beside the river.

Once it was apparently full of keşan-wearing Laz women. Today the only keşans (shawls) you'll see are those on sale in their new tourist-attracting shapes: dresses for children, waistcoats, socks, etc.

Instead the market is full of some fabulous fruit and veg in unbelievable quantities as well as lots of pungent cheeses, and helvas flavoured with walnut and apricot. Here, too, you'll see large wicker baskets designed for gathering hazelnuts, grapes or tea on sale. 

Before moving on you should do what the Turks do and drop by one of the bakeries to buy a loaf of bread roughly the size of a wheel. It's commonly held to to be some of the tastiest in the whle country.Bread

Transport info

Pick up a dolmuş to Vakfıkebir (42 km) from Trabzon's western minibus terminal.

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