Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

I’d come to Ardeşen, due east of Rize, in search of its famous hawkers but alas I’d come too late. In the local teahouse they were very apologetic. August, they said. September. But look, here on the wall were photographs of sparrowhawks in all their splendid plumage, and here by the...
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Much is written about the trials and tribulations of being a driver in Turkey but actually it’s not a whole lot better if you’re a pedestrian. As someone who still walks a lot despite the hazards here’s my take on the pitfalls of pedestrian life. 1. The first thing to...
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Tagged in: walking in Turkey
It’s not easy to be a travel writer when at heart you’re rather an earnest person. Travel is, after all, an essentially frivolous business. You don’t have to do it. You can only do it if you have expendable income. It’s all about the search for adventure, beauty, the authentic and...
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It was just before last year's election when I decided to head out to southeast Turkey. As on previous occasions it was obvious that there might be heightened tension there in the run-up to the election. Came an email from a friend living out Urfa way. It’s tense in Diyarbakır, Midyat...
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The road to Dargeçit, the old Suryani Kferboran northeast of Midyat, is in a shocking state. Or at least I presume that it still is, given how it was when I was bouncing along it last May as I did my best to take in as much of the Tur Abdin...
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Tagged in: Dargeçit Ilısu Dam

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