Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

Success! On my second try I’d actually managed to get inside the fourth-century monastery of Mor Yakup in Nusaybin. I’d also seen the finished version of the impressive Mesopotamian Cultural Centre (Mitanni Kültür Merkezi). But before heading back to Midyat there were a couple more local attractions that I wanted to...
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When you’re researching a travel article everything sometimes works out perfectly first time round. Unfortunately on other occasions it simply doesn’t, which is how it was with me and Nusaybin. The first time I’d gone there some five or six years ago I might as well have stayed at home...
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Writing about Cizre this week memories from last year came flooding back. Cizre was one of the few towns in Turkey I had never got round to visiting. It sits, you see, in a triangle (Cizre-Siirt-Şırnak) that people are always keen to warn against visiting. In any case information about Cizre...
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Last night I had the weirdest sensation. I was walking back from the İkbal Lokantası in Afyon town centre to the Şehitoğlu Konaği in the old part of town when for a fleeting second I actually felt as if I were back in Ottoman times, hurrying home in the dark,...
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Poor old Fatih, forever fated to be written off as too conservative and/or stuffed with wedding dresses. Yet the strange thing is that you can spend a perfectly happy few hours here without anybody bothering you about religion at all. And that’s even when you’re a woman without a headscarf,...
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