Thoughts reverent and irreverent from the road in Turkey

According to my writing partner Saffet Emre Tonguç there's a museum in Genoa that celebrates that city's role in the history of İstanbul and I was thinking about that today as I was poking about in the back streets beneath the Galata Tower, the most prominent reminder that there was once...
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Two years ago while doing the research for Istanbul The Ultimate Guide one of the parts of the city that most set my pulse racing was, rather unexpectedly, Karaköy. Karaköy is one of those places you tend not to notice, a transit point where you're always hopping in and out of...
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It's been a while since I was in İstanbul so it was fun to take a turn along Ordu Caddesi (Army Street) and see what was cooking. Actually, I kicked off in Beyazıt with a quick look to see if there was any chance that the Calilgraphy Museum in the Beyazıt...
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So you want to get from Cappadocia to İstanbul? The quickest and easiest way is to fly but of course that requires a bit of advance planning. What's more you might be unlucky and want to travel at a particularly popular time in which case the cheap tickets people always tell...
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What bliss to wake up in boutique luxury rather than home-stay squalor! I wander downstairs and find the breakfast room indoors which is a great disappointment. You can carry your plate upstairs to the terrace and feast your eyes on the great flat Plain of Mesopotamia unfolding into the distance...
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Today’s the day we’re moving on to Mardin which nobody has warned us against visiting, thank goodness. The dolmuş leaves from Diyarbakır’s local bus station, and I think fondly of the days when that used to be right in front of Kıbrıs Caddesi and the cheaper hotels. Now there’s a...
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The big disappointment of this visit is to find so many of the things I’d visited 18 months ago closed for restoration although of course it’s a very good sign that the authorities hope to be able to attract more visitors to the city in due course. Personally, I think...
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Yippee! The great thing about having visited the heads on the mountain last night is that we don’t have to get up at an ungodly hour this morning and can instead enjoy a leisurely breakfast while soaking up the mountain view and the blissful peace and quiet of Karadut. Eventually though...
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The memory is a very curious thing. On one of my previous visits to Kahta people had told me about a castle at Gerger which, they assured me, I ought to visit. Then there hadn’t been time, and to the best of my memory I had never once thought of...
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There was a time when it was hard to find any information about tourist attractions in Turkey but the situation is improving rapidly now. Yesterday I’d been flicking through some leaflets while waiting for Rebecca and had seen mention of a Mor Petrus Paulus (Sts Peter and Paul) Syrian Orthodox...
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