“With a Comb” Town Population: 3,400
Market day: Saturday
Favourite son: Saim Özel (calligrapher)
Pretty little Taraklı is clearly visible from the Adapazarı-Göynük road, its whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs especially alluring against a backdrop of dense woodland. Supposedly, it acquired its rather odd name meaning “with a comb” because ever since the 17th century the locals have been carving combs, spoons and all manner of other wooden odds and ends here.
Taraklı is a delightfully light and open small town centred on a square which is framed by a small park and the Yusufpaşa Cami (1517), an early Ottoman mosque with a portico, central dome and single minaret. Right beside it is the restored Ottoman Çakırlar Konağı, Taraklı’s first boutique hotel.
Taraklı’s most revered resident was one Saim Özel, a renowned calligrapher who died in 2005 and who is commemorated by a sign near the mosque. You can admire samples of his handiwork in the large building on the far side of the park which was once a school and now functions less as a museum than as a depository for odds and ends for which no one can find a use any more.
Not far from the old school you can also inspect the Hacı Arıf Hanı, once a caravanserai on the old Silk Road to Baghdad where travellers from İstanbul would have put up for the night with their animals, while across the road was a depot where goods en route for the then capital could be stored. In 2013 it was being crudely converted into a luxury hotel.
Taraklı’s back streets are filled with once imposing Ottoman houses, many of them slowly being given the kiss of life. Finest of all is the Fenerli Evi, which has a windowed lantern on the roof, a rare feature also to be seen on buildings in Kastamonu, Divriği and Silifke. Alas, in 2013 it was being allowed to fall into ruin.
Kadirler KonağıNot far from it you may stumble upon the remains of a hamam dating back to the 14th century. In its heyday this bathhouse was supplied with water from a nearby stream, dredged up by a waterwheel that has long since vanished. You will also be able to stroll through the pretty streets of the Arasta (bazaar) which are lined with cute little wooden-framed shops where, should the mood take you, you will be able to stock up on painted wooden spoons.
Unlike neighbouring Göynük, Taraklı has no industry to speak of which means that the opportunities offered by tourism are being grabbed with both hands. The town is in danger of being completely swamped by day trippers.
Sleeping
Çakırlar Konağı. Tel: 0264-491 2803
Hanımeli Konağı. Tel: 0264-491 2282
Kadirler Konagı. Tel: 0533-431 7667
Transport info
There is one bus a day to Taraklı from İstanbul’s Harem bus station, leaving at 10am. It continues on to Göynük. Otherwise, there are no buses between Göynük and Taraklı which might mean using a taxi to get from one to the other.
There are hourly buses to Taraklı from the lower level of Adapazarı‘s large otogar .
Day trip destinations
