City of Midas Population: minimal (Yazılıkaya)
Midas Şehri was the name given to the rock-cut settlement established by the Phrygians around what is now the small village of Yazılıkaya (Inscribed Rock), 72 km north of Afyon and 107 km south of Eskişehir in the area known as the Frig Vadisi (Phrygian Valley).
Its most conspicuous monument is a soaring, decorative rock-cut structure that is known as the Tomb of Midas because the Phrygian inscription on the facade mentions a Midas (although not necessarily the well known King Midas of the ass’s ears). A statue of Kybele, the Mother Goddess, may once have stood in front of it.
Facing the tomb is what is thought to have been a Cappadocian-style rock-cut monastery or perhaps a multi-storey apartment block like the one at Uçhisar. If you stand back and look up at it from a certain angle you’ll see the profile of a person with a pointed nose looking out from the rock.
Keep walking round the base of the rock with the tomb cut in it to find the acropolis of the ancient settlement. On the way you’ll pass another inscribed but incomplete tomb, known as the Küçük Yazılıkaya with an impressive rock-cut staircase beside it. The path winds round to the acropolis which offers fine views over the valley. Turn left when you arrive and you’ll see the so-called stepped altar. Quite a walk beyond it is another stepped structure with a decorative top known as the Kralı Tahtı (King’s Throne).
On the way back wooden steps lead down on the left to a deep cistern.It’s possible to climb down into it but would not perhaps be advised if you’re on your own in case it’s hard to get out again.
As for the village at the foot of the rock, it’s virtually abandoned, its mud-and-stone buildings crumbling into picturesque decay. A plan to start a pension there had died on its feet in 2023.
Transport info
Getting to Midas Şehri without a private car is tricky although you may be able to pick up a taxi in Seyitgazi.
In a private car or taxi you will be able to stop at several minor sites in the Phrygian Valley along the way. The interesting village of Kümbet is close at hand and well worth a diversion.
