As you drive west from İzmir to Çeşme you will pass to the north the little visited Çeşme Peninsula where every winter the sweet scent of flowering narcissi (nergisler) fills the air.
Unfortunately most of the settlements on the peninsula have been developed without thought for the environment. The only truly pretty village is Ildırı, the site of ancient Erythrae, with remains of ancient walls, a Roman theatre and a Byzantine aqueduct.
At the far north end there’s accommodation overlooking the sea at Mordoğan and Karaburun.
Transport info
To get to Karaburun you need to catch a bus from İzmir’s Üçkuyular local bus terminal, rather than from the main otogar. If you’re staying out at Çeşme or Alaçatı you might be tempted to try picking up the bus somewhere along the way rather than travelling all the way back to İzmir but space is at a premium and you might find yourself having to stand for much of the journey.
In high summer ferries connect Mordoğan and Karaburun to Eski Foça, a great way to cut out having to travelling through the İzmir sprawl.
Street dogs enjoying the sun in Mordoğan
