Old name: Punta (The Point)
The great fire that raged along the Kordon of what was then Smryna for four days in September 1922 wrote off many of its finest buildings. Fortunately the little terraced houses of Alsancak with their cute little cumbas (upstairs bay windows) survived, and many now accommodate small cafes, bars and restaurants. One of the most interesting is Jackson’s but you’ll soon find your own favourite.
In the 2010s İzmir decided to inject a lighter touch into its museum scene and one of the lovely old houses now showcases an unexpected museum of masks from all around the world (closed Mondays). It’s tiny but the exhibits are impressive.
Bustling, pedestrianised Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi is the İstiklal Caddesi of İzmir, just without the grand 19th-century buildings. Come here to soak up the street life, tune into the politics and choose from endless places to eat.
Alsancak Station dates back to 1857 – look out for the contemporary clocktower nearby, the first in the city. Just down the road is St John’s Anglican Church with the British Consulate right beside it; it was completed in 1899. There are church services most Sunday mornings.
Sleeping
Hotel Ege Palas. Tel: 0232-463 9090
Ibis Hotel. Tel: 0232-414 7000
