“Pine Terrace”                         Population: Less than 500

In the Georgian Valleys northeast of Uzundere along a spectacularly beautiful road with mountains looming on both sides lies the modern and not especially lovely village of Çamlıyamaç. Nonetheless it’s dominated by the substantial remains of the magnificent monastic church of Öşkvank which dates back to 973 and boasts the most elaborate stone decoration of all the forgotten Georgian churches in these parts.

The porch of the Öşkvank church is richly carved with vine leaves and grapes along its sides. The southern narthex features heavy columns and inside four more columns with magnificent capitals, some of them carved with relief figures and seraphim, support a dome with twelve windows cut into its high drum. As at İşhan, the dome is covered in glittering tiles but, unlike at İshan, its facade is decorated with all sorts of carvings: angels, figures of the donor and his church, and assorted animals.

The monastery is believed to have continued in operation into the 15th century. Beyond the east end the remains of its refectory and scriptorium (or library) also just about survive.

Despite hanging on to a few wood-and-stone buildings, Çamlıyamaç is not as pretty a village as İşhan. Nor is there anyhere to stay here. Osk2 copy

Transport info

There are no dolmuşes to Öşkvank. You can hire a taxi from Yusufeli or Erzurum but it will be much cheaper to do so from UzundereOsk3

Author

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