“Beet Field and Cliff Valleys”
Travelling south from Mustafapaşa to Soğanlı you will pass a turning on the right that leads to the Pancarlik Vadisi (Beet Field Valley), one of Cappadocia‘s many under-visited valleys. Not only is the scenery spectacular, with undulating ridges of pink rock and dollops of meringue-like white rock but there are three rock-cut churches to visit here too.
Most important of these churches is the Pancarlik Kilisesi, a monastic church housed inside a group of rock cones. The flat ceiling of the church is still completely covered with frescoes in which reds and greens predominate as is the upper part of the small apse and large parts of the north and south walls. It dates back to the 6th century, although it was largely remodelled in the 10th which is when the frescoes were added.
Pancarlık KilisesNot far away in the connected Kepez Vadisi (Cliff Valley) is the 10th-century Sarıca Kilisesi which was only discovered in the early 2000s (it was buried under mounds of earth). It stands in splendid isolation and is only open from April through to the end of October, if then. The church inside the hump of rock is small and has only simple red sketches rather than proper frescoes. Restoration of this church has come in for many awards although already the protective covering is crumbling.
Sarıca Kilisesi No 3
The other two churches nearby are said to be architecturally more impressive although I haven’t seen them.
Sleeping
The nearest accommodation is in the ugly Gomeda Hotel (Tel: 0384-353 5050). There’s a much better choice in Mustafapaşa.
Transport info
You will need private transport to get to these churches but they are clearly signposted. Some jeep safaris include the Pancarlık Vadisi on their routes.
Pancarlık Kilisesi
