“Promegranate” Village Population: 5,000
These days it may be little more than a suburb of Nevşehir but officially Nar, just to the north, still has a separate existence and once you get away from all the modern high-rise development on the outskirts and penetrate the old heart of the village it still feels delightfully rustic (although disappointingly blighted by litter).
The main square is dominated by a twin-domed mosque dating back to 1713 built on the site of a 17th-century mosque. Look up at the minaret to see one of the small carved birdhouses that were a popular adornment at that time.
The best thing to do is follow the signs from the main square with the statue of Atatürk towards the Aşağı Mahallesi (Lower Neighbourhood) which still retains a lot of old stone houses, albeit rarely with anyone living in them. Eventually the road trickles out into the countryside with rock formations lining the road. It may not be super exciting but if you need somewhere near Nevşehir to while away a couple of hours it might just fit the bill.
One small curiosity about Nar. It was here that the British writer Joyce Roper came to live briefly in the early 1970s, leaving an account of her stay, The Women of Nar, which presents a picture of life there as almost unbelievably hard within living memory.
Sleeping
The pink and grey Peri Tower Hotel (Tel: 0384-212 8816) looms over the outskirts of Nar. It’s popular with groups and those who book private tours from İstanbul although most people would probably prefer to stay in the more picturesque surroundings of Göreme, Uçhisar or one of the other Cappadocia hotspots.
Transport info
Dolmuşes to Nar leave the Meteris Kavşağı (junction) in the centre of Nevşehir every 20 minutes.
Read more about my search for The Women of Nar: A Village Called Pomegranate
