Old name: Kosinitsa
Until recently not much known to outsiders, the Kuzguncuk suburb of Asian İstanbul is very popular as a place to live because it still has the feel of a cohesive neighbourhood with a tree-lined main street, İcadiye Caddesi, that boasts an inviting range of one-off shops, cafes and restaurants just minutes away from the Bosphorus.
The fact that the suburb retains churches, mosques and synagogues has ensured that it is often talked about in terms of multicultural tolerance. In reality, of course, the churches and synagogue have only tiny congregations today and are usually kept locked.
Coming in from Üsküdar, the extensive Fethi Ahmet Paşa Korusu (Wood) sits immediately beside the main road. Paths wind steeply uphill here, but, as is increasingly the case, Beltur is on hand with an Ottoman-themed restaurant in which you can relax on your way back down again.
Surp Krikor LusavoriçBuilt in 1831 and rebuilt in 1861, the unmissably huge Armenian church of Surp Krikor Lusavoriç is right beside the main coast road, near the old ferry terminal. Right beside it is Kuzguncuk Cami, also known as the Yeni (New) Cami because it was only built in 1952. The domes of the two buildings mirror each other in pleasing fashion with one surmounted by a cross and the other by a crescent. Just round the corner is the synagogue.
On İcadiye Caddesi, the Greek Orthodox Church of Hagios Pantaleimon was built in 1896 on the site of an earlier church dating back to 550 that burnt down in 1861. Its magnificent detached bell tower (1911) doubles as an entrance gate. Beside it, in a detached building, is an ayazma (sacred spring) also dedicated to Hagios Pantaleimon.
Ayazma chapel at Hagios Pantaleimon
A third, smaller Church of Hagios Georgios stands beside the Beth Ya’akov synagogue.
Marko Paşa is buried in the neat Greek graveyard at Kuzguncuk. Meanwhile up on the hillside the old Jewish cemetery looks as if a bomb has hit it.
Eating
Asude Ev Yemekleri Well-known for tasty home cooking served in a diminutive but cheerful restaurant just off the high street. Tel: 0216-334 4414
İsmet Baba Venerable Bosphorus-facing fish restaurant with few decorative frills but a reputation for great dining. Tel: 0216-341 3375
Transport info
It’s easy to get to Kuzguncuk by bus from Üsküdar although it’s only a short walk if the weather is good. The ferry terminal is served by a handful of commuter ferries as well as by deniz dolmuşeş (sea taxis) from Galataport. These are relatively expensive and accept payment only by temassız (contactless) cards – half-price if you pay with a Mastercard.
Nearby areas
