“Rather Milky”

At the far end of the Golden Horn, Sütlüce is a little-visited suburb known mainly to peeople attending conferences at the Haliç Kongre Merkezi (Golden Horn Conference Centre), unexpectedly housed inside what was once the city’s biggest slaughterhouse.

It’s a rather odd neighbourhood with pockets of gentrification rubbing up against what was always a rough and ready sort of place albeit with fine views across to Eyüp on the opposite shore.

The one site that does specifically lure people here is Miniatürk (open daily, admission TL385, Turks TL88) where it’s possible to see replicas of all Turkey’s most famous sights; it’s a goodish place to bring children who’re bored with all the history unless you will be getting out to see the real sites. The nicest way to reach it is in a sandal (rowing boat) from beside the ferry terminal. miniaturkMiniature Dolmabahçe Palace at Miniaturk

Around Sütlüce

If you take the ferry to Sütlüce the striking abbatoir-turned-conference-centre will be to your left. Designed in 1923 by Markho Logos and Osman Fitri, it had twin towers built into it that served as icehouses for cooling the carcasses stored here. The building continued in use into the 1980s when Mayor Bedrettin Dalan made the decision to rid the Golden Horn of the industry that had polluted it. In 2009 it reopened in its new guise. 

If you walk behind the building you will see on the right of the road the small, unexciting Çavuşbaşı Cami that has been attributed – not very convincingly – to Sinan. Behind it, the restored late 18th-century Hasirizade Elif Efendi Tekkesi has been reopened as the Elif Efendi Dergahı.

Nearby, the Sütlüce Hamam has also been attributed, almost certainly erroneously, to Sinan. It was, in any case, extensively restored during the reign of Sultan Abdülhamid II.  Plans to restore and reopen it have not yet come to fruition. 

bilgiBilgi University CampusIf you follow the newly landscaped waterside promenade west along the Golden Horn you will come eventually to the grounds of what was originally the Silahtarağa Santral (Silahtarağa Power Station). From 1914 to 1952 this was İstanbul’s main source of electricity, supplying just the European side of the city until 1926 and then the Asian side  as well. Once it stopped being used for electricity the power station was sold to Bilgi University who still operate a small Museum of Energy (open daily, admission free) inside it.  Come here to see some of the machinery that used to keep the city’s lights on. For children there’s also a small hands-on science section.

Until 2012 the university was also home to İstanbul’s most avant-garde art gallery but many of the artworks in its permanent collection were sold in 2013 and, aside from temporary exhibitions, the gallery is closed, its role effectively taken over by SALT on İstiklal Caddesi. 

There’s nothing to stop you exploring the extensive grounds which are home to a couple of good restaurants and several fine pieces of sculpture.

humbarHumbarhane CamiIf instead of walking past the abattoir you turn right at the ferry pier and walk towards the Fatih Bridge you will see, more or less underneath it, the Humbarhane Cami (Mihrişah  Valide Sultan Cami), built in 1794 for Sultan Selim III’s mother.

Transport info

The best way to get to Sütlüce is on the Golden Horn ferry from Üsküdar Karaköy or Kadıköy. Failing that there are also plenty of buses from Taksim or dolmuşes from Şişhane Metro station.

The Golden Horn tram from Eminönü also has a stop at Silahtarağa for Bilgi University.

Nearby areas

Eyüp

Hasköy

 

  

 

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