Like Göltürkbükü on the northern side of the Bodrum Peninsula Yalıçiftlik is a two-in-one sort of place, albeit one that has managed to hang on to the two separate identities rather better than its super-trendy cousin.
Yalıçiftlik lies east of Bodrum along a road that runs past the entrance to the stadium where every winter male camels take part in wrestling matches. It then skirts Barbaros Bay which these days is little more than the private bay of the luxury Kempinski Hotel complex. This perches discreetly on one side scooping up gorgeous views of azure sea. Finally the bus pulls into Yalı, a small strip of rather scruffy public beach and a collection of luxurious hotels.
Some keep going another 4km to Çiftlik where, finally, the Bodrum Peninsula remembers its roots as an agricultural area. There’s no real reason to come here except for a glimpse of modern rural reality which means a handful of old stone houses rapidly giving way to modern concrete ons, all with gardens full of luxuriant foliage and happy, squawking chickens.
It would be good to report that the walk from Çiftlik to Yalı was an enjoyable one but sadly it is blighted by the ever-present modern drawback of litter disfiguring the entire roadside.
Transport info
Yalıçiftlik is one of the tougher bits of the Bodrum Peninsula to get to by bus. It’s not that there aren’t any buses from Bodrum’s town-centre otogar but they are very reluctant to depart unless full which can lead to long, hot waits. What’s more, most terminate at Yalı; if you want to continue to Çiftlik you may face more hanging about at Yalı. Come by private transport if you possibly can.