“Purple hawk” Population: 5,450
Market day: Tuesday
On a map of Turkey Karaburun tends to look more prominent than Mordoğan although in reality the latter is the biggest town on the Çeşme (Karaburun) Peninsula. Its focal point is an attractive fishing harbour. Behind it lurks one of the old windmills that are such a picturesque feature of fashionable Alacatı. This one, however, has been abandoned to the taggers. There’s not a lot to do here aside from frequent the many simple cafes that ring the harbour.
Many Turks have second-homes near Mordoğan and to serve them there are branches of Migros and Carrefour, worth knowing about if you’re heading further north to Karaburun.
Northwest of Mordoğan a sign points the way to a spring named after Narcissus, presumably the one in which the Greek youth is supposed to have looked and fallen in love with his own reflection. His name was then attached to the daffodil-like flowers that grow in profusion in this part of the world in winter (nergis in Turkish).
Sleeping
Yıldız Motel. Small modern hotel facing the harbour. Tel: 0232-737 8135
Transport info
There are frequent buses to Mordoğan from İzmir’s Üçkuyular (western) bus terminal. A few continue on to Karaburun, sometimes meandering through the inland villages of Karaagaç and Koşedere on the way. In high summer demand can outstrip supply so if time is an issue be sure to book a return ticket on arrival at the small bus terminal facing the harbour.
In high summer there is a ferry service to and from Mordoğan from Eski Foça, north of İzmir.
Day trip destinations