Hocapaşa is a tiny neighbourhood tucked away just off Ankara Caddesi and behind the tramway at the point where Gülhane segues into Sirkeci. Although it is home to the small 15th-century Hocapaşa Hamamı, a redudnant Turkish bath with separate sections for men and women that is now a cultural centre used to host performances by whirling dervishes, it is mainly known for its small esnaf lokantaları, restaurants that traditionally catered for local workers. Indeed, it has been suggested that the cluster of restaurants here is the biggest surviving collection of such restaurants left in the city.

Unfortunately as tourism has rolled down the hill from Sultanahmet towards Sirkeci the old businesses that used to exist here have mostly vanished in favour of hotels and shops catering for tourists making it even more important that people come here to patronize one of the many döner kebap shops. Kasap Osman, in particular, can always be relied upon for a tasty, reasonably-proced meal – not to mention for having what must sure ly one of Turkey’s largest döner stands. 

Transport info

The nearest tram stop is at Sirkeci. Get off the tram and head inland and uphill along Ankara Caddesi, then take one of the first two turnings on the left to find Hocapaşa.

Nearby areas

Eminönü

Gülhane

Sirkeci

 

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