The port of the Hatay Population: 186,700
Old name: Alexandretta
***In 2023 İskenderun was devastated by twin earthquakes. I have not been back to see the damage so this page should be viewed as potentially historical.***
Too readily written off as “industrial”, İskenderun in the Hatay is actually a very pleasant and liveable city once you get away from the busy Antakya-Adana highway and down to the seashore.
The main road into town is Şehit Pamir Caddesi. Take this to arrive in Cumhuriyet Meydanı, the main square. It’s a 10-minute walk although there are dolmuşes to “Çarşı” as well.
Around town
On the shore road, the Deniz Müzesi (Museum of the Sea) is a state-of-the-art museum containing all sorts of pictures, models and artefacts to do with Turkey’s naval history. There’s lots of local information, especially about the history of the region and Atatürk’s part in it. A big effort has also been able to make it fun for children.
The palm-lined and landscaped promenade makes a great place for a stroll, especially towards sunset, and there are several inviting places to stop for a çay. At the northern end a picturesque harbour is full of fishing boats and men mending their nets or working on the hulls of pleasure cruisers.
İskenderun hosts a trio of early 20th-century buildings with fine tile decoration, all of them along the waterfront.
Finest is the Adliye Sarayı (Palace of Justice), right on the main square overlooking a small park. Built between 1925 and 1936, it boasts a conspicuous clocktower. Sadly, on my most recent visit (May, 2014) I found it derelict with foliage obscuring one of the clock faces.
Also facing the park is the Merkez Bankası (Central Bank), obviously built at the same time to judge from the matching tiles. The tiles crop up for the third time on the İskenderun İlçe Milli Eğitim Müdürlügü (Provincial Education Management) on the waterfront near the Museum of the Sea.
The back streets also host five churches, survivors from the more multicultural days of the early 20th century when there was a large Levantine trading community here. One of the largest is a Catholic church that dates back to c.1600 although it was completely rebuilt in 1888. Nearby are a much smaller Greek Catholic church and a domed Armenian church concealed behind a high wall. The large Greek Orthodox church is on Şehit Pamir Caddesi. Most recently restored is the old Suryani Church.
A single stripy minaret of the Kaptan Mehmet Paşa Cami (Ulu Cami) survives from the original mosque of 1864.
The waterfront has been extensively landscaped and equipped with sports facilities, children’s play areas and keep fit equipment. On the inland side of the road a string of chi-chi stores have also opened their doors.
Eating and drinking
It’s worth dropping in on the Petek Patisserie, originally opened in 1942, which gently suggests the French flavour of the İskenderun of that era. It’s on M Fevzi Çakmak Caddesi.
Sleeping
Rather oddly, none of İskenderun’s hotels faces the water although the planned Hilton in the Park Forbes complex will remedy this deficiency. If you want a seaside hotel you might prefer to head on to Arsuz.
If you’re just passing through there are a couple of hotels (Ontur, Sun) on the main road to Antakya which would let you stop the night right near the bus stops.
Dome of Armenian churchDay trip destinations
Transport info
Most buses heading from Adana to Antakya will be able to drop you in İskenderun. Otherwise regular dolmuşes from Adana to Dörtyol leave from the Yüreğir bus terminal; you can swap there for onward transport to İskenderun.
There are also very frequent minibuses to İskenderun from Osmaniye.
In Antakya you can pick up an İskenderun dolmuş at the junction of İstiklal Caddesi and Yavuz Sultan Selim Caddesi.
Minibuses to Arsuz leave from just round the corner from the Şemsettin Mursaoğlu Anadolu Lisesi (High School) on Kanatlı Caddesi. 
