Old name: Pitane
The small, sleepy settlement of Çandarlı, near Dikili, has somehow managed to hold at bay the sort of high-rise development that has so marred many other resorts.
That said, there’s not a whole lot of reason for a foreign tourist to come here, especially given that the magnificent castle that is the main attraction has never been open to visitors in all the twenty years that I’ve been coming here. It’s a great shame since it’s an imposing and attractive building that would make an excellent museum.
The castle at it exists today is a Genoese construction dating back to the 14th century when Pitane was a Genoese trading colony.
There is also an Ethnographic Cultural Centre set in a small garden but that was also closed on my recent visit.
Things may be about to change though since on my most recent visit (May 2014) I found the Merkez Cami completely gutted as a prelude to restoration while the old plasterwork was being stripped off the few remaining stone buildings in the streets behind it, presumably as a prelude to repainting them.
The beach here is the thinnest of strips overlooked by a long line of bars and restaurants. 
Boat trips to nearby Kalem Adası (island) are available in summer.
Sleeping
There are only a few places to stay here so it might not be wise to arrive in peak season without a reservation. Out of season everything closes down. You might want to stay in Dikili and visit Çandarlı for the day.
Samyeli Hotel. Tel: 0232-673 3428
Tuana Pansiyon. Tel: 0232-673 0315
Transport info
Minibuses to Çandarlı leave from the upper level of İzmir’s otogar every 15 minutes or so. Alternatively you can take the İzban train to Aliağa and then pick up an onward bus. The same minibuses connect Çandarlı to Dikili.
To get to Bergama you will probably need to change buses in Menemen.
Day trip destinations
