“The Great Barracks” Population: 5,700
Old name: Faustinopolis
Market day: Monday
Ulukısla is believed to have been founded by the Emperor Marcus Aurelius and was originally named after his wife Faustina who died here in 175. Its modern name, however, means “The Great Barracks” and commemorates a huge barracks that once guarded the main road from Ankara to Adana.
The Great Barracks had been used by a general named Öküz (Ox) Mehmed Paşa during the Persian campaign of 1615. Afterwards he had a huge külliye (mosque complex) built beside it; it was completed in 1616. The complex incorporated a caravanserai where travellers on this busy road could rest, an arasta of shops whose rents would support it, an imaret (soup kitchen), a tabhane, a hamam or Turkish bath and a relatively small single-domed mosque that is still in use today.
Unfortunately when I visited in May 2014 the entire complex including the mosque was locked up outside prayer times. It was also obvious that it had been given one of those overly thorough “restorations” that had made it look almost new and that had provided clean flat services on which taggers could do their ugly worst.
Is it worth coming here?
Not, in my opinion, if you would have to make a special trip. On the other hand if you’re driving from Niğde to Adana it might be worth the short western detour, especially if you have time to wait around while someone tries to rouse a key-holder.
In 1925 the İstanbul-born poet Faruk Nafız Çamlibel is thought to have been inspired by a visit to the barracks to pen his ode Han Duvarları (Caravanserai Walls).
Transport info
Hourly buses link Niğde and Ulukışla. In Niğde they leave from near the Yıldız taxi rank opposite the Sağlık Ocağı (Clinic); in Ulukışla they leave from opposite the caravanserai.
