Old name: Bournabat
The northeastern İzmir suburb of Bornova was once a completely separate settlement joined to the rest of the town by a commuter train and largely inhabited by the Western settlers known as Levantines. Today it’s one of the smartest parts of town where many of the huge mansions built for the wealthy (including the British Whittall family who once ruled the roost here) have been converted to house departments of Ege University and other government offices. Some still retain lovely gardens and immaculate lawns. In many ways it’s a little enclave of Western Europe in a sprawling Turkish metropolis.
There are no specific tourist attractions to draw you here but you may still enjoy strolling around for an hour or so admiring the grand houses and taking a quick look at the Anglican Church of St Mary Magdalene which reopened after extensive renovation in 2023. It was commissioned by a member of the Whittall family and contains many memorials to that and other local Levantine families as well as stained-glass windows designed by the Kempe workshop, as symbolised by the tiny wheatsheaf logos included in them.
The Hungarian composer Liszt spent some time in Bornova during his visit to Turkey in 1847 (https://interlude.hk/franz-liszt-istanbul/), while Atatürk visited the fine Macropodere Evi in 1934.
Eating and drinking
One of the nicest places to go for a drink is Kafe Pi which is housed in an old Levantine house draped with wisteria in spring. There’s lots of space inside and out. The menu mainly features the sort on international dishes popular with students.
The old Bornova station on the far side of the bus stops outside the İzban station is shaping up to offer a choice of cafes too. Tren is already open offering a similar range of dishes. The railway branding extends to the toilets which are designed to look like carriages.
Sleeping
Hotel Villa Levante. One of the few truly boutique hotels in İzmir offers a chance to stay in true old Bornova style. Tel: 0232-343 1888
Transport info
It’s easy to get to Bornova from the centre of İzmir by İzban from Basmane or Konak.
Bus no 505 runs from Bornova to the Otogar.
