Population: 28,000

Northeast of Kayseri, Bünyan is not a town you would normally go out of your way to visit. If, however, you’re visiting the Hittite ruins of Kaniş-Kanum (Kültepe) you might want to drop in on it at the same time.

The lower modern town is of no interest but keep walking uphill to the older mahalles at the top of the town and you’ll come upon the remains of an old hamam, several old fountains and arches, the remains of a late 18th-century stone konak and, best of all, the İlhanid-era Ulu Cami which dates back to 1334 and has a typically “Selçuk” carved portal. Cut into the hillside below you’ll see the remains of walls that suggest there were once many stone houses backing onto cave storerooms rather as in Cappadocia.

Transport info

Buses and dolmuşes to Bünyan leave from beside the Atatürk İlkokul opposite the Han Cami in Kayseri. Try and catch a dolmuş since the ticketing system for the Belediye buses is very user-unfriendly; if you do take the bus make sure to buy a return ticket at the same time as the outward one.

With your own car you might want to make a stop at the Hittite-Assyrian site of Kaniş-Karum at Kültepe on the way.

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