“Father’s Castle” Population: 500
If you’re staying in Assos/Behramkale and have access to a car you might want to drive out onto the Biga Peninsula. Journey’s end will be Babakale, nine km west of Gülpınar, and said to be the most easterly point in Asia.
Here a small fishing harbour is dominated by the austere remains of a huge castle, supposedly built by prisoners on the instructions of Sultan Ahmed III after he took refuge here from a storm in the 1720s and learnt how dreadfully the locals suffered from piracy. It was the last hurrah of the Ottomans who never attempted another castle afterwards. The small mosque was built in 1725, at the same time as the castle.
There’s little to see inside the castle, so instead you might want to grab a fish lunch in one of the three restaurants overlooking the harbour. Afterwards, a quick stroll behind them will bring you to a small shop owned by one of the last Turkish craftsmen still hand-making knives.
The Baba Burnu headland nearby was the Cape Lekton of the Greeks but became the setting for the tomb of a dervish that was guarded by hermits who relied on food thrown from their ships by passing mariners. The dervish was the “baba (father)” after whom the town was named.
Sleeping
Uran Motel
This small hotel offers clean, unpretentious rooms overlooking the sea above a fish restaurant near the castle. It’s perfect for those who want to get right away from it all. Check prices for fish carefully though – mine cost considerably more than I was expecting.
Tel: 0286-747 0218
Karayel Hotel Tel: 0286-747 0497
Otel Denizhan Tel: 0286-747 0102
Transport info
There are a few daily dolmuşes from Gülpınar to Babakale. Check the return times carefully.
