The ancient Paipertes Population: 32,000
Market day: Monday
From Erzurum it’s a nice run out to Bayburt on the banks of the Çoruh River. Unfortunately, so-called restoration has wrecked an enormous hilltop castle dating back to the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian; it may still look impressive from a distance but where once purple tiles adorned its façade, giving rise to the nickname “Tile Castle,” expect to find only graffiti and garbage now.
Walking round town you will see a number of austere but elegant old stone houses. This is also one of the last places in Turkey where you may still see local women wearing a chador-like brown woollen robe flecked with blue stars called an ehram. A European Union-supported project has been trying to find new, exportable ways to use the material.
Sleeping
Should you get stuck there are places to stay in Bayburt including the ugly Bayburt Konaklama near the otogar. Best to head back to Erzurum though.
Transport info
Minibuses to Bayburt from Erzurum will take you into town or you can catch a bus heading towards Trabzon and get out at the otogar on the main road north.
