Mini-Safranbolu near Bilecik Population: 21,900
Old name: Lefke
Market day: Friday
Osmaneli, near Bilecik, is one of the many mini-Safranbolus of old Ottoman houses that dot the northwestern corner of Turkey yet attract far fewer visitors. Long known as Lefke, Osmaneli merits a footnote in postal history since Turkey’s first airmail letter was carried by plane from here to Bilecik in 1914. However, it’s mainly interesting as a place to come to admire old Ottoman architecture without distracting crowds.
A picturesque town, Osmaneli is slowly being restored, starting with its 16th-century Ulu Cami (Great Mosque), a gift of Rüstem Paşa, grand vizier and son-in-law of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, to the town. It was designed by Yüzgeç Mehmet Paşa, a pupil of the great Sinan.
Facing it, the imposing two-storied Hükümet Konağı that once housed the local government now houses the Fırtına Butik Otel.
Overlooking Balaban Meydanı one newly restored house has a fresco of Rumeli Hisarı, the castle on the Bosphorus in İstanbul, beneath its eaves.
Particularly magnificent 18th-century konaks (mansions) to look out for include the Tokluoğlu Konağı and the Cebecioğlu Konağı.
In terms of specific sights it’s also worth looking out for the ruins of the huge Greek Orthodox Church of Hagios Georgios (St George), built between 1876 and 1878, probably by a Hungarian architect, on the site of an older church lost to fire. Plans are now underway to convert it into a museum. However, the locals are more likely to direct you to the shrine of Bayraklı Dede, a local evliya or holy man. It’s colourfully draped in Turkish flags, bayrak being the Turkish for flag.
Sleeping
Fırtına Bütik Hotel
Transport info
Minibuses to Osmaneli leave Birecik bus station every half an hour.
Travelling to or from Birecik it’s easy to stop off for a quick look round Vezirhan too.
In the past terrible damage was casually inflicted on Osmaneli’s fine houses
