Population: 170,000
Old name: Mutalaski, Dalassa
When 19th and early 20th-century writers raved about the beauty of Kayseri it was often Talas they were really talking about. Today that lovely old Talas has fallen into decay, almost hidden out of sight by a new Talas of modern high-rises that is effectively a suburb of Kayseri. But ask to be directed to Eski Talas (Old Talas) and you will be pleasantly surprised to find yourself in a neighbourhood of fine old hilltop mansions that once belonged to Greek and Armenian merchants.
In the 2010s there was a belated attempt to renovate some of them but a proposed hotel to be created out of a mansion that used to belong to the Gulbenkian family still hadn’t come to pass in 2024.
Once locked and decaying, the Greek Orthodox church of St Mary (1886) has been beautifully renovated and turned into the Yaman Dede Cami, providing a pleasant centrepiece for the neighbourhood. 
In 1871 the Talas American College was established on the crest of the hill. In 1906 it was expanded with the addition of a school for girls. Despite suffering terribly in the early part of the 20th century, the College continued in business until 1968. Its somewhat austere buildings still survive, the boys school now housing the local youth and sports administration, the girls school providing offices for Erciyes University.
Before leaving Talas you should also stroll along Ali Saip Paşa Caddesi in the lower Kiçiköy Mahallesi where a lot of restoration work has already been completed.
Transport info
The easiest way to get to Eski Talas is to take the Talas tram from Kayseri’s Cumhuriyet Meydanı. On arrival walk straight ahead past the cemetery and bear left until you reach a square (meydan). On the left you’ll see the restored Kiçiköy Mahalle with its many cafes. Turn right for the Harman Meydanı whence a path and the road climb to the upper mahalle.
There are also regular buses from the centre of Kayseri to Talas although unless you’re careful you may end up on a very unappealing tour of the high-rise neighbourhoods that hide the old town. With luck you’ll arrive at the Kiçiköy Mahalle whence s few dolmuşes run to the upper part of old Talas. It’s an easy walk from the bus stop provided that it’s not too hot.
Read more about Talas in 2011: http://www.turkeyfromtheinside.com/index.php?option=com_easyblog&view=entry&id=22&Itemid=218
Carving above old church door
Restored mansion in Ali Saip Paşa Caddesi
