Home to the Akçaabat meatball           Population: 37,500

Old name: Platana (Greek)

West of Trabzon, the small town of Akçaabat may be nothing much to look at on the surface but nevertheless lays two claims to your attention.

The first is the Ortamahalle, the lofty old Greek part of town where lovely old houses with silvery woodwork and great sea views are now been given a new lease of life. You’ll find them by taking the (very) steep road that rises from beside the solid Yeni Cami (1912). Focal point of the mahalle was the small late Byzantine church of St Michael the Archangel, built in 1332. Today it stands in ruins beside a small cafe but if the door’s open pop in to admire the remains of its fine mosaic floor. church

The second claim on your time is Akçaabat’s eponymous köfte (meatballs). These may not look much different from those served elsewhere in Turkey but chefs will assure you that they are made from cattle reared on the lush green pastures of the Black Sea and fed no additives or supplements. Organic meatballs, then, and at their best they certainly taste super-good.

The thrifty and conservative will want to try one of the small köfte joints inland from the main road. It’s obvious, though, that the town’s movers and shakers prefer to eat theirs at one of the köfte palaces on the sea side of the road. Poshest is the Körfez (Tel: 0462-228 0150) which looks straight onto the fishing harbour, but the Saray (Tel: 0462-227 0599) throws in so many extras with your meatballs that you’ll be waddling back to the bus afterwards.

Transport info

Frequent minibuses pass through Akçaabat on their way from Trabzon to points west.

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