Whether you’re staying in İstanbul or on the coast you will be able to eat excellent fresh fish, simply served, in a wide variety of restaurants ranging from the simple to the luxurious. The price of fish is not regulated in Turkey so take care when ordering to avoid later misunderstandings.
Eating fish in İstanbul
In İstanbul the most famous fish restaurants are those in the Bosphorus suburbs although short-term visitors are more likely to end up eating it at one of the restaurants on the underside of the Galata Bridge. None seem to have a standout reputation but it’s worth knowing that those on the Golden Horn side are excellent places to come in the evening to watch the sun go down over the Sülemaniye Cami as you tuck into your fish.
The reopening of the suburban train line from Sirkeci station has brought two areas renowned for their street restaurants back within easy (non-taxi) reach of Sultanahmet. Both Kumkapı and Kocamustafpaşa (Samatya) have squares ringed with restaurants (meyhanes) where fish takes centre place on the menu. Expect Romany musicians to accompany your meals.
The fish vocabulary
Levrek (sea bass) is a mainstay of the fish markets, as are çıpura (gilthead bream), lüfer (bluefish) and çinekop, its smaller cousin.
Kalkan (turbot) is one of the most expensive fish served in restaurants and often only available in spring.
Kalamar (calamari) is a common meze and can be served either fried (tava) or grilled (ızgara).
Midye (mussels) are caught everywhere and make a popular street snack stuffed with rice and tiny raisins. Make sure you eat them fresh.
Uskumru (mackerel) provides the filling for the literally thousands of fish sandwiches sold daily. They’e especially strongly associated with the boats moored near the Galata Bridge in İstanbul even if the fish are almost all imported. Despite their touristy trappings, the fish boats are under threat from the authorities who’d like to see the back of them.
The hamsi (anchovy) is probably Turkey’s most famous fish. Swarms of hamsi arrive in the Black Sea towards December, and in the cuisine of the Trabzon area these tiny fish play a vital role, turning up in everything from omelettes to sweet dishes (there’s even reputedly a hamsi cologne). So beloved is the hamsi that it’s immortalised in a Black Sea dance performed by men with a great deal of body shimmering.
During hamsi season in particular you will sometimes bump into street traders trailing barrows of fresh fish around.
Other fish that you’ll see on sale include:
- Alabalık – Trout
- Barbunya – Red mullet
- Dilbalığı – Sole
- Gümüş – Sand smelt
- İstakoz – Lobster
- İstavrit – Horse mackerel
- Karagöz – Black bream
- Kefal – Grey mullet
- Kılıçbalık – Swordfish
- Lagoş – Grouper
- Mercan – Sea bream
- Mezgit – Whiting
- Palamut – Tuna
- Sardalye – Sardine
- Torik – Large bonito
- Yengeç – Crab
- Zargana – Needlefish
