Kanlıca

“Rather bloody”

Old name: Glaros

Important date: In late August Kanlıca is the launchpad for the trans-continental Bosphorus swim

On the Asian shore of the Bosphorus the small suburb of Kanlıca is best known to locals for its popular yoghurt, sold in vast quantities near the ferry terminal. This is a part of İstanbul which still retains many of its lovely old yalıs (waterside mansions). These are best appreciated from the water since most are concealed from prying roadside eyes by lofty walls and high security.

The best known place for sampling the yoghurt is the İsmailağa Kahvesi right beside the jetty which has been in business for decades. The eponymous İsmail is thought to have introduced the thick yoghurt from Bulgaria. It’s often eaten sprinkled with icing sugar.

There are no specific sites to see here although the area immediately around the jetty is invitingly olde-worlde. It’s overlooked by the small İsmailağa Cami, originally built by Sinan in 1560 for a powerful official whose tomb can be seen beside the small timekeeper’s lodge (muvakkitane). Sadly, none of the great Ottoman architect’s handiwork survives today. In 2024 the mosque was behind wraps for restoration.

Less attractively, one of the huge radar towers that line the shores of the Bosphorus also looms over the square.

Climbing the hillside above Kanlıca the Mihrabad Korusu is a stretch of woodland that once offered inspiration to poets such as Yahya Kemal Beyaltı. Even today its view of the Bosphorus and both its bridges is breathtaking. It comes with marked walking trails and an inviting line-up of tea gardens. Without a car it’s a bit of a trek to reach it though.

As for the yalıs, the easiest to identify is the pretty Ethem Pertev Yalısı, also known as the Süslü Yalı (Decorated Yalı). It dates back to the 1860s and incorporates a beautifully carved verandah.