Taurus Mountain stopover Population: 32,700
Old name: Claudiopolis
For the time being, Mut, a small town on the shores of the Göksu river once known for its fine carpets, makes a great place to break a trans-mountain journey between Karaman and Silifke since its otogar is right in the middle of town with everything you might want to see just a few minutes’ walk away. Hop out here, pass an odd hour or so exploring the older part of town and then press on.
In crossing the Taurus Mountains to reach Mut you transit the Sertavul Pass, 1,660m. Slight remains of a Selçuk han, probably dating back to the 1220s, survive on the Mut side of the pass.
Around town
Behind the otogar you can see traces of the old city walls. Bridges over the water channel and steps lead up to the lovely Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi (Tea Garden Beneath the Plane Tree) which is shaded with ancient monumental trees yet also has modern touches like a trampolining arena for children.
Behind the tea garden stands the austere La’al Paşa Cami (La’al Paşa Mosque) which dates back to the Beylik era following the collapse of the Selçuk Sultanate of Rum. A curiously austere building reminiscent of the İbrahim Bey İmaret in Karaman, it comes twinned with two pyramidal tombs in a state of neglect. The green marble columns supporting the portico almost certainly came from one of the buildings of ancient Claudiopolis.
Across the road from the mosque are the remains of Mut Kalesi (Mut Castle). The outer walls have been restored quite well and you can still make out where pieces of old Claudiopolis were reused in building them. The circular keep inside has, however, been given a toy-town look. In lieu of a formal museum, the castle grounds contain many sarcophagi and other finds from Claudiopolis.
The streets around the castle contain several examples of what Mut houses used to look like: stone-built with layers of wood, topped off with mud roofs. That they stand over the site of Claudiopolis is indicated by the fact that almost all have gateposts or garden furniture made out of old marble columns and capitals.
Centrepiece of an old-fashioned bazaar quarter is the large Taş Han, currently overgrown and used for storage but surely due for restoration in the near future.
Sleeping
Buletbey Hotel & Spa Three-star newbie right in the centre of the old part of town. Kocabaşı Sokak No. 1, Tel: 0324-774 0347
Transport info
Many buses ply the main road from Karaman to Silifke, passing through Mut.
Day trip destinations
Yerköprü Şelalesi (waterfall)
