“Goose Fountain”
Just beyond the Theodosian Walls at Yedikule lies a district called Kazlıçeşme which was once known for the tanneries, first developed in the 15th century, that continued on the site right through until 1993 despite the dreadful smell. The suburb is better known now for its attractive name which hints at the story behind it. In 1453 when the Ottomans were laying siege to Constantinople some of the soldiers were desperate for a drink and were advised that they should follow a flock of geese to find water. Almost a century later in 1537 a fountain decorated with a carving of a goose was erected on the site where they eventually found relief from their thirst.
Today there is a still a “Goose Fountain” at Kazlıçeşme, albeit one that sits on a traffic island in the middle of the road. To find it take the Marmaray to Kazlıçeşme station, exit towards the Sea of Marmara and cross the car park, bearing right. In doing so you will pass the restored Erikli Baba Tekke, a dervish lodge that originally dated back to the 15th century. It was closed in 1826, reopened by a poet called Perişan Baba, then closed again in the 1930s. Near the fountain the small Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Paşa Cami and Fatih Camis have been restored although the ruins of a small hamam have not. More controversially several new tower blocks erected now intrude on the famous Ottoman skyline from certain points in the city.
If, instead, you exit the station on the inland side and turn left you will come to the Armenian Surp Pırgıç Hastanesi (Hospital) dating back to 1832. Wander into the grounds and you’ll find that they include a small chapel and graveyard. The old pharmacy is also preserved with all its old bottles intact.
In 2023 a new Kazlıçeşme Sanat Merkezi (Art Centre) opened in the old Belediye building, an imposing red-brick complex with a striking imperial tuğra over the main entrance. The main building contains space for temporary exhibitions but at the far end it showcases a huge mosaic presumed to have been the focal point of a 4th-century AD Byzantine residential complex outside the walls.
The mosaic was discovered under the floor of the building during renovation work and continues out into the old car park where a metal shelter protects it from the elements. Here, too, can be seen a sarcophagus dating back to the 3rd or 4th century that was found beneath the mosaic. The indoor part can be seen under glass in a room that contains information on mosaics in the ancient world.
The grounds contain a restaurant with a view of the Sea of Marmara and a cafe with outdoor tables shaded by a variety of trees.
The arts centre is actually closer to the Zeytinburnu/Fişekhane Marmaray stop than to the Kazlıçeşme one; turn left on the seaward side of the station to find it. If instead you turn right you will quickly come to a small new mosque with, beside it, a tall stone-and-tile plinth with the stump of a column on top of it. This was presumably a smoke-stack belonging to the Fişekhane, built in the 1840s as the Zeytinburnu Imperial Factory (Fabrika-I Humayun) producing weapons and bullets. Later it was handed to the army and was used for repairing heavy armoured vehicles before falling into ruins. Now it has been restored to house the extraordinary Büyükyalı upmarket high-rise housing and Fişekhane shopping and eating development. It could be anywhere in the world.
Transport info The Kazlıçeşme station is on the Marmaray line from Halkali to Sirkeci. The Art Centre is best reached by taking the Marmaray to Zeytinburnu/Fişekhane. Come out on the seaward side of the station, turn left and walk for 5 minutes along the road past a small park. The Centre is across the road on the right.
Kazlıçeşme is also the final stop of the U-bahn light railway from Sirkeci Station which passes through Yedikule, Kocamustafapaşa, Cerrahpaşa, Yenikapı, Kumkapı and Cankurtaran. This is the stop to use if you want to see the goose fountain.
Nearby areas Land Walls
