If you head inland northwest from Eminönü along the shores of the Golden Horn towards the Atatürk Bridge you will pass through a rough and ready neighbourhood called Küçükpazarı (“Liitle Market”). Here you will find a mixture of small fairly ordinary Ottoman mosques and hamams interspersed with a mixture of traditional shops and restaurants and old hans, some with fine bird-houses on their facades. Few foreigners come here which makes it all the more rawly authentic although a new tram stop may soon change that.
Eating
Look out for the late 19th-century Kuveloğlu Han (its entrance is on a side street) where the Tarihi Pide Fırın dispenses pides by the thousand in its courtyard every day with çay to follow. No photos allowed unfortunately.
Transport info
You can easily get to Küçükpazarı on foot from Eminönü or Tahtakale by following the coast road west towards the Atatürk Bridge and then cutting inland. However, Küçükpazarı is now the first stop on the Golden Horn tram from Eminönü.
Nearby areas
Vefa
Kedi Hotel near Atlar mosaic
