“The Mescid under the Grapevine”
Just off İstiklal Caddesi, Asmalimescit is the small, confined area near the Tünel exit of the Tünel-Karaköy funicular. In 2010 when İstanbul was European Capital of Culture it was jam-packed with pavement cafes clustered around what was then the popular Babylon nightclub in Şeyhbender Sokok. Then in 2011 many of them were ruthlessly cleared away with tables quite literally dragged from under diners. For ten years Asmalimescit was a shadow of its former self but by 2024 it had roared back to life with many pleasant cafes, restaurants and bars spilling out into the streets again.
There are no official “sights” here although most of the buildings date from the latter half of the 19th century. Slowly they are being cleaned up, repaired and found new uses. For example the back of the Narmanlı Han which used to house the Russian Embassy opens onto Asmalimescit.
Lovers of street art will find good examples of colourful graffiti in this area although there are also plenty of ugly tags and tatty posters as well.
Eating
The main reason, if not the only reason, to come to Asmalimescit is to eat, drink and be merry. Note that “lunch-time” in the restaurants here often starts at 2.30pm.
Aheste
Antiochia Come out of the Tünel, walk through Tünel Gecidi and turn left to find this first-floor restaurant which specialises in the cuisine of the Hatay (Antiochia was the old name for Antakya). In summer it is almost too popular for its own good but out of season you’ll eat well here. Te: 0532-177 1616
Asmali Cavit and Yakup 2 Asmalimescid has always had a handful of long-lived and very popular meyhanes, most of them on Asmali Mescit Caddesi. These two have stood the test of time in a crowded market. Try either for good-quality mezes, fresh fish and lashings of rakı.
Picante As soon as you see the piñatas lined up behind the bar you’ll know that you’re in for a Mexican feast at this restaurant that advertises itself as serving Latin/Borderline cuisine. Fajitos, chimichangas, the whole caboodle, and with the tequila to go with them too. General Yazgan Sokak No. 8/B, Tel: 0212-252 4753
Transport info
To find Asmalimescit leave the Tünel and walk straight ahead through the elegant Tünel Gecidi. It’s the congested cluster of streets on the far side of that pasaj.
Nearby areas
