Ardanuç

A forgotten Georgian capital Population: 5,500

Ardanüc is a small town in northeastern Turkey near Artvin with two castles and a dramatic gorge to its name. It was once the capital of the Bagratid Kingdom of Georgia which flourished, in different forms, from the late 9th to the 19th century.

Now that the Deriner Dam has opened the old road closures should be a thing of the past. Using public transport used not to guarantee enough time to look round properly which should also have changed. However, it’s worth knowing that there is one small hotel here.

Approaching Ardanuç from the Artvin direction you will come first to the Feratlı Kalesi, a castle so tightly slotted into the rock that it’s easy to miss it and which may date back to the 5th century. The road then follows the Ardanuç (Bulanık) river through a wonderful gorge until it emerges at the far end where the Gevernik Kalesi (Adakale) may also have been sitting on its plateau above the modern town since the 5th century. It’s a tough climb to reach either castle.

The walk through the gorge on the other hand is a doddle unless you want to climb up into the Cehennem Deresi Kanyonu (Hell’s Canyon), a cleft in the rock to the right of the road as you return from Ardanuç. Sadly taggers have been at work here and it is used as a rubbish dump which greatly detracts from its appeal.